| Playing
Mas at Trinidad Carnival |
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Playing Mas at carnival is the
opportunity to express yourself as part of a vast street theatre. It ranges
from the great costumes of the kings and queens to the paint and mud
covering j'ouvert revelers. Beasts and demons make the rounds, fancy
sailors, minstrels, midnight robbers and jab jabs conjure up carnivals past
while the sexy bead and bikini extravaganzas wait until Tuesday
before venturing out en masse. |
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| The separation between the
performers and audience is clear from the stands in the great savannah
showplace but the distinction evaporates elsewhere as carnival day
approaches. One finds oneself in the midst of a continuously unfolding
state of mind that blurs fantasy and reality. In
its midst, time of day or direction you move no longer matter. |
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Children's bands
crossing the Carnival stage |
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The children's
day to play mas 'Kiddies Carnival' on Saturday, is
where this section begins. They were delightful parading over the stage
under a clear blue sky. Traditional Indian and African themed costumes were
popular. The hours before the beginning of Dimanche Gras the next evening
were spent roaming the savannah, taking in the crafts and food, and
listening as the steel bands rehearsed for the evenings program. It was here
where we met Shiron Cooper rehearsing with the BWIA Invaders. |
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| The judging of the finals to
determine the king and queen of carnival takes place during Dimanche Gras
[LINK]. The costumes generally
cost between 60,000 and 100,000 TT and it is said that 'Sky is the Limit'
worn by the winner - 2003 King Curtis Eustace, cost 120,000TT. The
elaborateness of the costumes is a sign of the esteem held in being named
the King and Queen of Carnival and the fact that mas costumes have become a
full time, year round industry here. Dimanche
Gras ended fittingly with the newly named King,
Queen Alana Ward and Calypso Monarch Singing Sandra being mobbed by a
pandemonium of devils, moko jumbies, fire breathing demons,
press and well wishers. |
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Paint and
mud-covered revelers passing Independence Square on J'Ouvert Morning |
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| The glory of the moment, the crowning
of the winners is juxtaposed against the spontaneity and raucous energy of
J'ouvert which is set to begin. It is now 2 a.m. and on the way downtown to
the J'ouvert celebrations our newly formed crew stopped into the Mas Camp on
Ariapeta in Woodbrook to recharge batteries and down a couple of beers.
Woodbrook and St. James are in the heart of
the celebrations. The streets are pulsating, even at this hour, with music.
The atmosphere is relaxed Vendors of food and drink line the streets to keep
the revelers fortified. Stands have been erected in strategic locations to
watch the bands that will pass seemingly continually for the next two days. |
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Our J'ouvert begins at
Independence Square, where a panel of judges decides J'ouvert King and Queen
and Mayor Murchison Brown crowns the winners then retreats into the stands
as the revelers start to roll past. The Maratuntas Insects parade by dirty
with mud and red and green paint while the music of Snake Oil blares from a
truck. Space clears as a pair of Jab Jabs flicking whips stop in front of
the stands to inflict pain on each other. Another Band, entitled Anything,
passes wearing blue hospital garb. A large man dressed in diapers and
sucking a bottle goes by in a make shift baby carriage,
a mud mas band blowing whistles, the Maravel Monstrile, a large band
parading to JuJu music, 'Fantasy Islands' in floral print clothes with crazy
music. Jessie a new friend, is trying to make sense of the chaos for me
over the din, but soon she's nowhere to be found. |
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Ace photographer
David Wears at work, feeling the J'ouvert bliss |
| As the sky grew pale it revealed
streets filled at every turn with delirious revelers, and, it should be
noted, a heavy police presence. Extra precautions were taken to ensure this
year's events were trouble free. As the sun rises the energy of the revelers
diminishes and we duck into the offices of the Trinidad Guardian to rest up
and process some film. Outside Mas bands are forming up to march through the
streets on carnival Monday but it is on Tuesday
morn that the big bands come out in full force. |
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Traditional
Indian King on Carnival morning |
Jumpin' Up
on the Savannah Track |
| Tuesday,
Carnival day, Hart's 'The Strip', Legends'
'Bedazzled' Minshall's 'Ship of Fools', Barbarossa's 'Comme Ce, Comme Ca',
and Poison's 'Fleurs de Passion' and dozens of smaller groups parade
through the streets in full costumes. Trini to the Bone by David Rudder,
Faye Ann Lyons "Display" and Destra Garcia's "Is Carnival" ring in the ears
as the day progresses. Judging for the various categories
take place at the Queens Park savannah and all bands with the exception of
Minshall's passed there. Hart's Las Vegas themed presentation crossed the
stage first just after 8 a.m.The massive "jump and wine energy' of the large
bands was interspersed with smaller bands. |
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| Several bands chose
Sailors themes giving the traditional theme a contemporary look, notably
renowned designer Peter Minshall's Ship of Fools and Mt. Hope Connection's
"A Sailor's Dream" and De Boss. Mystery Raiders' carried forward the
tradition of using costume to voice opinion. Their "Ye Robbers of Marli
Street" was directed at America a pointedly critical commentary on the soon
to be launched war on Iraq. Marli Street is the location of the American
embassy and access to the street has been restricted. The day wound down
after the 10,000 member 32 section band Poison passed nearly 10 hours later. |
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